Point No Point: Oceanfront Cabin Escape

Two small rooms made almost entirely of windows, binoculars on every table, and a $48 plate of scallops while you scan the strait for whales. Dinner only, five nights a week, so plan like you mean it. Dinner only, Wed-Sun 5-8pm; closed Mon-Tue; reservations strongly recommended, parties of 6 max

The whole west coast queues here for date squares and the Conversano sandwich, and rightly so. Yelp once ranked it among Canada's best cafes, which is a lot of pressure for a shed in the forest. It copes. Open 8am-3pm, kitchen closes at 2pm sharp; closed Tuesdays

Wood fired pizza in tiny Shirley, with a sheltered patio and crusts carrying proper char. Reviewers rate it 4.9, which in a village this size is essentially unanimous. Order ahead on long weekends or bring a novel. Seasonal, roughly May through January; hour-long waits possible on busy weekends, call ahead

A family run Jordan River pit stop for homemade soup, pastries and a proper coffee across from the surf break. On Friday and Saturday nights it becomes a wood fired pizza and takeaway sushi operation, because out here one cafe does everything. Family-run, hours can vary; check their Instagram before making the drive

A repurposed little house in Sooke doing farm to table dinners from a menu that changes daily, wild nettle pappardelle included. Book ahead; the dining room is roughly the size of a generous living room, because it was one. Open Thu-Sun from 5pm only; reservations recommended

25 cliff-edge cabins, every one with a private hot tub, fireplace and Strait view, plus an on-site restaurant. Studios from ~$300, larger cabins higher. Books out months ahead.

Reopened after a multi-year, ~$14M renovation, 28 rooms and fine dining on Whiffin Spit Rd in Sooke, a romantic alternative base.

Year-round motel rooms and RV/tent sites on the Sooke Basin, the affordable in-town base. Call to confirm rates.